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A Rather Late & Timid Review of AM

I do realize there is a lot of negative press going around about AM & I won't be for purchasing from them again should they open up - for many reasons - but I put in this order early in March at the beginning of The Lockdown, prior to any of the flames & fury that followed. This was a very curious & exciting purchase to try and stave off any negativity from being laid off my day job at a local bistro (and I've found myself returning to it lately in the wake of more stress & such). I received my order in late August & have been trying out the twelve vials I ordered (as well as the 7 samples I was sent) since then.
What I ordered: Dreamy, Soft Core, Badass, Dominant Women, Boss, Smut Lust, Blood Musk, Red Musk Superior, Sensory Deprivation Tonic, WTF, Violet Musk, Strawberry Musk.
Samples I Received: Swedish Erotica, Elvis, Jo's Orange Blossom, Send Nudes!, Vanilla Lacey, Catwalk.
Dreamy: Rich, dry cookie like vanilla, peru balsam, Arabian musk tahara, platinum amber & white, creamy amber.
On me, I mean, there's not much other than a lot of vanilla with a crunchy cookie note at the beginning. It lasts for hours. I tend to put it on about an hour before bed and the cookie will fade as I lay down, vanilla will last to the next morning and it dries down to a warmth that has to be the creamy amber note. It is enjoyable but I must say there are plenty other vanilla/cookie/musk scents out there.
Soft Core: Clover-like honey, cocoa, oud & dark woods.
Wet, straight vanilla caramel with a butter note. No honey here, which saddens me as that's one of my favorite notes, but it still smells bomb. Dries down into the oud/woods with an ever so slightly bitter cocoa note. Would not mind finding a dupe for this one, or something similar. Especially if it actually went honey on me.
Badass: Dark aged patchouli, extremely dark black musk, furry brown loud but ground musk.
I dare say... I was quite looking forward to the patchouli and the furry musk I was promised. On my skin it smells clean though and floral. I don't know how. It screams Ylang Ylang from the highest tree branch and does not let up. Whether fresh on my skin or hours later, dry and physically unnoticeable, it's a very loud aura of ylang musk & I am not a fan. If anyone wants it, it shall likely be up for sale ASAP.
Dominant Women: Red Egyptian musk, black cherry, leather whip, black pepper, synthetic ambergris, grounded sandalwood, vanilla absolute, musk mallow, shea & beeswax.
I picked this one for another favorite note - beeswax, and yet again, sadly, it goes very clean & fresh on me. With all the lovely deeper, base notes used in this blend I'd have thunk it to be rich & warm, a little spiced and fruity. Alas, it starts spa-like with a powdery sandalwood note (which is how nearly all sandalwood shows up on me - so disappointing) and dries with just a hint of the pepper, shea & cherry alongside more of the sandalwood (which though powdery on my skin seems to also last AGES no matter what I do to run it off).
Boss: Sassy, bold boozy Cabernet, Japanese strong lightly floral musk, juicy rose.
Much like the description says, it's a lightly floral musk that dries to a boozy wine note. Doesn't particularly scream Boss to me though.
Smut Lust: Creamy, badass girl blend; milky skin musk, creme brulee, lickable body shimmer, cola on the breath, in a vanilla suede hat & halter top.
Creme brulee right off the bat with that crisp caramelized sugar snapped open to reveal a beautiful light musk with the barest whisper of cola. Suede comes in on the dry down. I feel like this should have been called Badass rather than the one Sarabeth gave that label to.
Blood Musk: A deep, intense, uncut black musk from India & very special 8 year aged red musk. Dark, sexy musk.
Oof. This is a dirty, sexy musk. No disguising this as anything other than what it is. No notes other than musk and like... actual dirt. Like I've been digging in the garden. Damn. I mean, it's interesting but probably not a regular for me. Maybe for use when I need to literally ground myself and smell like I've been outside even if I haven't been.
Red Musk Superior: Sharp, intense, sexy, sweet, demanding & SMUTTY AF red musk. Use faintly. Apparent lady magnet.
Wet On Skin: It crawls out sticky and thick; a sweet, smoky, very intense musk. For certain would be paired with some luscious burgundy velvet, faux fur, leather. At least that's the image I get. DEFINITELY put too much on & it was merely a dab. Quite bold & a bit stinky, if I'm being completely honest. Drying & dry: I don't know what I expected, being that this is a MUSK. It's very musky, what else is there to say? Would I call it smutty? Eh. I suppose it does remind me of something one might smell off a very attractive woman around her 40s, picking up sexy younger guys. A cougar, one might say. If this one is anything like Blood Musk, and I assume it will be by the extremely similar consistency, it will refuse to leave for several hours, if not a whole day & a half. Dangit anyway. I'm surround by nothing but this musk with the occasional whiff of Violet Musk which is dabbed on my other arm.
How strange that my grandmother (mid 80s) thinks it's a soft, lovely fragrance. I find it loud & obtrusive and quite annoying that 3 HOURS LATER it is still the only thing I can smell in the bubble around myself.
I will say, with the staying power this house's red musk seems to have on my skin, I do think it'd be a good one to use very, very sparingly to anchor another perfume oil or two, as a layering oil. It's certainly not a standalone perfume - not for me anyway.
Sensory Deprivation Tonic: Soft marshmallow cream, lightly sweet Tunisian sandalwood, touch of Mysore. Blue Egyptian musk, skin milk, dreamy lavender.
Lots of marshmallow, cream, musk & skin milk wet. As it dries the lavender comes out & it's a lavender, vanilla & marshmallow calming scent. After a few hours the lav & mallow is joined by a powderiness which is most certainly the sandalwood. Good for sleep.
WTF: Teal musk, neroli, black as the moonless night coffee, sweetened, no cream, dark 89% cacao chunks, wheat bread.
The shortest evolution ever. Pure coffee & dark chocolate for about a minute, a whiff of wheat bread (which was odd and so short it could have been imagined) and POOF it all disappeared for baby powder & musk. Likely the baby powder is the neroli.
Violet Musk - I was unable to find notes listed for this.
Violets + musk. I suppose that's all that was necessary, really. That is what's in the name. Perhaps a breath of pure golden sugar... when wet of course. A weird grape undertone as it dries. It smells purple, but not royal/vibrant purple like my logo more of a silvery, well, violet purple. The weird grapey note is what flies off my skin of course & being that I am not a fan of grape... well.
Strawberry Musk - same as above.
Strawberry Crunch ice cream. That is what I immediately think of and smell, wet. As it dries, toasted marshmallow, vanilla & a bit of cloyingly sweet fake strawberry. Fully dry, the musk comes out with a drizzle of toasted vanilla cream. I do quite like it wet & once it dries down, but that in-between bit with the punch of synthetic strawberry blechness is not pleasant.
Swedish Erotica: Swedish fish candies, milky skin musk, vintage wax candies, adult featured rose.
When I first put it on, it made me think sugar cookie + white flowers + musk. Don't ask me why, I've no idea. It was just my initial thought without notes in front of me. The cookie fades away & then it's just sugar + musk + flowers. Very nice. Definitely could go for something similar.
Elvis: Toasted marshmallows, amber resin, black velvet orchid, civet musk (synthetic), fruit juice stained cream silk blouse.
Marshmallow, warm fruit, floral musk note but no civet that I could pick up on. Meh. I'll wear the sample til it's gone but, even if I could, I wouldn't buy it myself.
Jo's Orange Blossom - no notes
Wet: Yep, that's orange blossom. Literally sticking your nose over a bottle of orange blossom water. Stays close to my skin. Nice little whiff if I get close enough otherwise it's much like I'm not wearing any perfume at all. Fam can't smell it either so it isn't just me. It's a nice smell though. Perhaps I'll see how it goes with Vanilla Lacey or Alkemia's Trick or Treat. As it dries, it does flutter to my nose a bit more but only in whispers every now & again. Which is nice compared to the experience with Red Musk Superior but I'd like something in between. Just a smidge more oomph. Dry, the orange bit of the orange blossom is lighter & the floral bit comes out more so it does float about creating a very soft, bright, inviting little bubble about me. Overall, I do like it & wouldn't mind finding similar scents for days when I want something that doesn't scream I'm here, I'm here! at the top of its lungs.
Send Nudes! - citrus musk
Flies off the skin, and enters my nostrils whether I'm ready or not. Definitely citrus... possibly lemon peel. Notes of vanilla and something... white (whether floral, amber, musk? I dunno. My nose isn't that good) on the drydown. Ends smelling kinda like candied lemon peel with something else I can't place.
Vanilla Lacey: apparently just a lot of vanilla
Wet on skin - Super vanilla hard cookie like that brand that makes a flavor called English Tea (I think it's Mother's?). That smell. As it dries, that scent clings but something like maybe a light citrus sugar joins the party. The musk seems very light if present at all. Reminds me heavily of VS's vanilla musk but with a really, really light whisper of crunchy cookie at the back.
Catwalk: Nu-White is a sharp rich smelling silvery white musk & makes this blend generously haunt you all day long. Violets, gardenias & rose shine heavenly, softened by bashful vanilla. Lemon sugar sneaks up but adds a zing.
FLORAL musk all the way through with a quick bit of what must be the nu-white at the very beginning - comes across caramelized on me some way somehow - unless it is the vanilla coupled with the lemon sugar. Either way, it goes much too floral on me. I'll likely gift to my mom since she likes florals & musks.
Definitely open to suggestions of other houses that do musks well. I never thought I liked musks but apparently I do? If they're done well. Also, good patchouli blends. And beeswax. And honey. I likely won't be ordering for a while but I'll never stop having a wishlist of perfumes & other lovely scented creations!
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